dermaplaning: shaving your face, the advice of a pro

What is dermaplaning?

Shaving your face, do you like it? This is the principle of dermaplaning, performed using a scalpel, whose blade is thinner than that of a razor. Passed over the entire face, this tool eliminates down, but also excess sebum and dead cells accumulated on the surface. In fact, it is often presented as an exfoliation treatment, aimed at deliver a real glow to the complexion. Profiles with acne, eczema or even rosacea cannot practice it. After a session, the treatments are better absorbed by the skin and the make-up lasts longer. But… there is a but, and not the least!

“On problem-free, hairless skin, which is rarely the case, because almost all of us have a little down, why not! Nevertheless, dermaplaning is not recommended, due to the risk of micro-cuts, stains and hair regrowth. The “wow” effect is important right after, because dermaplaning suddenly brightens and unifies the face, especially if you are not used to doing treatments. However, there are other safer and more effective methods to remove dead skin cells and achieve a more even complexion. This may be a mechanical or chemical solution, such as skin cleansing, exfoliation, peeling, Hydrafacial treatment or wet dermabrasion. All lead to the same new skin effect, while being less risky. Dermaplaning is not a medical act, therefore, to date, there are no publications on this subject. This practice has recently become a trend, and we don’t really have any perspective,” analyzes Dr. Déborah Obadia, cosmetic surgeon.

First, the blade of the shaving tool is (supposed to be) sterilized. Then, the skin is cleansed and rinsed with hot water, in order to make room clean, but also to widen the pores somewhat. Subsequently, the skin is stretched with one hand while with the other, the blade is angled at 45° to the face and slid from top to bottom, using short, pressure-free movements. Beginners generally start with the forehead, an area that is not very sensitive and whose volumes are almost non-existent, therefore easy to understand. On the other parts of the face, the gestures are more delicate, and require special attention and gestures.

Following dermaplanning, the skin is often red and sensitive. In fact, the expected effects are not always immediately visible. In the aftermath, a very moisturizing treatment is necessary, as is the application of sunscreen, the cells newly exposed to broad daylight being particularly fragile.

In a beauty salon, dermaplaning takes about 45 minutes. At home, everything depends on the ability of the person. The risks of micro-cuts are always present, and with them, the aesthetic (scars) and health consequences.

Does dermaplaning make hair grow?

With the idea of ​​eliminating down, inevitably follows the fear of growing real hair. A point that dermaplaning aficionados brush aside, arguing that with a good tool and the right gestures, regrowth cannot be stronger. They thus claim that neither the diameter of the hairs, their color and their speed of growth, are impacted. The only frequent warning: the fact that by touch, a change can be felt. The end of the hair is no longer naturally pointed but cut clean.

These words, Dr. Obadia, refute them. “If you don’t do a dermaplaning session very regularly, the hairs grow back. The risk then is to activate the down and make thicker hairs, on areas such as the chin or the upper lip, which are hormone-dependent areas, subject to paradoxical regrowth. In other words, the hairs there are very sensitive, and if you start touching them, they can get really coarse. Dermaplaning is therefore really not recommended, especially since users are often people who are already bothered by their down. Certainly, the effect will be nice the next day, but after a few sessions, it can not lead to positive. Once the down has become thick, the only solution is the hair removal laser. We then start with a complicated situation to resolve, and above all, expensive. »

Shaving your face, an act conducive to stains

In addition to the hairs that can change over the sessions, dermaplaning involves other consequences that should not be overlooked. Among them, the pigment spots.

” Even with the greatest attention, micro-cuts are made by the blade of the scalpel. They are invisible to the naked eye and attack the skin, which will defend itself by creating a stain. However, the inflammatory hyperpigmentation spots can take a very long time to treatr” warns the cosmetic surgeon. The risk is all the greater on skin with a high phototype (dark skin) which is already naturally prone to hyperpigmentation, and if you are pregnant or a young mother. In this last situation, the hormonal impregnation is such that the skin is able to over-react, hence the warning against pregnancy maskand the fact that laser sessions are not allowed pregnant.

Doing dermaplaning at home or in an institute, what does it change?

Originally reserved for beauty salons, this practice is becoming more democratic and is now also carried out at home, as an autodidact. In the first case, the risk of micro-cutting is limited, in the second, the use of a tool which is exclusively dedicated to you is guaranteed. However, the risks are always present. “When you make a breach in the skin, if you don’t disinfect it before and after, there is a risk of bacteria entering the wound and creating an infection. It can be a impetigo with staphylococcus, for example. To minimize risk, the cleaning of the skin and the blade is essential. In the institute, the latter must be changed for each person, the hands of the practitioner must be disinfected and the gloves worn, really new and clean” warns our expert. So many points that are not always easy to check.

Finally, on the price side, you can find dermaplaning tools in selective shops as well as in supermarkets for around €15. To this purchase must be added those of a facial cleanser and a moisturizer, or even a sunscreen. In institute, count between 20 and 80 €.