Games of lengths, effects of material, daring colorings, hair novelties… Men, in cahoots with trends, free themselves from standards.
A wind of fantasy is blowing on the red carpets. Jared Leto’s hairdo adorned with a barrette and Stromae’s braided crown caused a stir at the Met Gala. Actor Jason Momoa’s braid at the Oscars, tied with a silk elastic, moved the audience. Even rappers indulge in a few hair extravaganzas in their music videos: SCH’s ultra-silky slicked-back ponytail and Orelsan’s bleached-white locks stand out in the urban setting. “We are seeing a global evolution of masculine codes in society. A great freedom of aesthetic expression is taking hold, and this is felt in the way men present their hair, confirms Pierre Saint Sever, studio hairdresser and Dyson ambassador in France. They wear more sophisticated and more worked hairstyles, without calling into question their virility. They make efforts, because they have understood that their hair tells a story and positions them socially. It is an integral and indispensable part of their looks.”
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Other particularly influential channels for the past two years that push them out of their comfort zone: “Social networks, with their multitude of tutorials and creative content, give them access to so many possibilities, adds Quentin Feynie, Bumble and Bumble training manager. . This abundance of images from everywhere allows them to take their cues from role models who resemble them physically and culturally, and try their hand at home. It is intergenerational, but it is above all the millennials and Generation Z, always more adept at testing different things, who are initiating this movement.”
In this identity and social quest that goes through the hair system, “men pay more attention to their hair and this is confirmed by the figures for the male skincare market which are soaring, notes Andrea Da Costa, training manager at Christophe Robin. Their routine changes, they are no longer satisfied with simple shampoo and treat themselves to deeper care at home. We feel that they are getting information, that they are more curious since confinement”. Their main concerns? “By far, hair loss. But also excess sebum from oily scalps, because men’s skin is biologically thicker than women’s,” continues the expert. The interest is confirmed in the salon and this increase in demand for care services should “accelerate in the months to come, according to Hovig Etoyan, hairdresser and Kérastase ambassador: “Before, men came to have their hair cut just to the practical side. From now on, they take much more care of their textures and they are fond of treatments. They are asking for more and more products healthy, to have a beautiful hair in good health, but which respond effectively to their problem. They are finally ready to take charge of their hair and show it off.” On track.
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The curly and textured hair is erected at the top of the season’s trends by hairdressing professionals, driven by the phenomenon positive hair. “The return of the curl is less linked to an aesthetic fashion than to this movement of acceptance of one’s hair type, underlines Quentin Feynie, Bumble and Bumble training manager. Men feel a deep desire to claim their natural state, they accept and assume their difference. They are no longer afraid to let them grow, to have density, volume and movement. At the same time, cosmetics brands are mass-launching care and styling products specially adapted to their rebellious hair: “They finally have something to treat, control, accentuate this material that they thought was indomitable with good products”, rejoices the expert.
Baby blue at Dior, peroxide blond at Burberry, pastel pink at Hermès, multicolored at Etro… A new hair playground, coloring is worn like a real fashion accessory. “In everyday life as on screens, Generation Z is pushing the trend to the extreme with 90’s spirit dyes in platinum, pink or pastel blue shades,” notes Pierre Saint Sever. When they’re not going all over the head, they opt for a simple streak of subtle color as a style marker.”
Flattened at the nape of the neck and perfectly slicked back at Celine, mule-style at Fendi, wavy at Versace, punk version at Rick Owens, ultra-smooth at Kenzo… The hair lengthens below the chin, brushes the shoulders and even extends beyond it. “We come back to these falsely grunge XXL lengths of the 1970s, notes Pierre Saint Sever, hairdresser and Dyson ambassador. The difference is that at the time we let them grow “hippie” style, without really taking care of them. Today, the trend is for maintained, shiny and well-groomed lengths. We play a lot more with textures, lines, movement.”
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