First French researcher in fashion design, the “clothing surgeon”, just 30 years old, operates the synthesis of ready-to-wear and made-to-measure. For Jeanne Vicerial who cares about care, the detail is not one.
In the center of an immaculate capsule worthy of a Star Wars ship, a robot weaves a dress that the dancer and fasciatherapist Julia Cima wears and sends waltzing. A ” ritual ” which can last four hours, for “ think and heal the body », the time of a play performed at the Martell Corporate Foundation. Jeanne Vicerial cares about care. To the point of opening her Clothing Clinic, a nomadic laboratory offering many alternatives to an obsolete and polluting system, as pointed out by fashion guru Lidewij Edelkoort in her Anti-Fashion manifesto.
A patented technique
In this hospital of clothing, the plastic surgeon heals excision of a shoulder pad ” or one ” liner cancer “. His ” knitting tables », elaborated with the École des Mines – ParisTech and the Voillaume high school in Aulnay-sous-Bois, fall in seven minutes flat and without falls, the work that his hand alone took seven hours to complete. A patented technique, based on the use of a unique, recycled black thread whose length is measured in kilometres.
Jeanne Vicerial and Julia Cima interpret movement at the Fondation d’entreprise Martell exhibition, 2022, Athanor. ©CK Mariot
Armor-like sculptures
In the end, “sculptures” are born that look like armor, second skins playing on analogies between textile fiber and muscle tissue, like this top mimicking the frame of the backbone. Vicerial never operates alone: photographers, perfumers or chefs accompany her, when she is not designing the costumes for a ballet by Hervé Robbe or an opera by Angelin Preljocaj. Networking is natural for this fan of the myth of Arachne, whose medieval and futuristic style quotes Giotto, Moebius or the skinned people from the Sansevero chapel in Naples. While waiting to publish her thesis and unlock the secrets of charcoal dyeing, she replicates the recumbent effigies of the basilica of Saint-Denis and is thinking of her next solo show at Templon in Paris. Business to follow.
Jeanne Vicerial, Dress Quarantine: Capillatura (“Hair Arrangement”), in
reference to the painting The Penitent Magdalen by the Italian painter Titian (1485-1576) ©Leslie Moquin
Jeanne Vicerial in a nutshell
1991
Birth of Jeanne Vicerial in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue.
2009-2011
Trained as a costume designer at the Paul Poiret high school for fashion and performing arts in Paris.
2013-2014
Leather goods course at the London College of Fashion.
2015-2019
PhD at EnsadLab, the research laboratory of the School of Decorative Arts in Paris.
2019-2020
Resident at the Villa Medici in Rome. Publishes on Instagram her Quarantaine vestimentaire, confinement diary where she poses covered with flowers picked on the Pincio hill.
2021
“Clothing clinic”, exhibition-residence at the Magasins Généraux in Pantin.
2022
Presences, personal exhibition at the Templon gallery in Brussels.
Jeanne Vicerial, Open Venus #2, 2020, collaboration with the artist Hugo Servanin for the body, textiles, knitted yarns (registered technique), flowers
dried fruits from the Villa Medici, 900 hours of work at the
hand, 180 x 80 cm ©Isabelle Arthuis
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