Skin care: acne scars

Skin care: acne scars

What are the different types of acne scars?

There are four of them:

  • First: red and brown marks, which appear right after the acne pimple.
  • Second: scars that leave hollows (slightly flat, cup-shaped scars, and deeper “ice-pick” scars).
  • Third: perifollicular elastolysis scars, giving rise to white marks sometimes in relief. They appear most of the time on the neckline and the back.
  • Fourth: hypertrophic or keloid scars, red and in relief, which extend beyond the area of ​​the initial pimple. They mainly affect the back and the thorax and, more rarely, the face.

What are the factors that favor them?

They are due to a strong inflammation in depth of the sebaceous gland. This creates spots (if the person heals well) or pits. In addition, the fact of handling the buttons is an aggravating factor. Conversely, the early implementation of acne treatments limits this risk. Thus isotretinoin is an effective drug, which literally saves the skin of people with severe acne. Note that while acne scars can be improved, most of the time they are not completely erased.

I have red or brown marks

To reduce red marks, you can use fruit acid-based treatments or vitamin A acid-based treatments (on medical prescription) which exfoliate the skin day after day. If the benefits are not there, we put on peels either with fruit acids or with TCA (trichloroacetic acid, social eviction for a maximum of one week) depending on the type of skin. Count between 1 to 3 sessions. As for the solar eviction, it is at least one month. Average price of a peeling: from €130 to €450. To be carried out by a dermatologist or aesthetic doctor. In addition, pulsed dye laser sessions improve red marks. The consequences: purple marks or/light edemas for a few days. Solar eviction for ten days and social eviction for 1 to 15 days depending on the lesions and the intensity of the laser. Count between 1 to 3 sessions (about 250 € per session). For brown marks (more difficult to eliminate than red ones), we test dermo-cosmetic treatments at home.

You can also apply products based on vitamin A acid or depigmenting molecules (on medical prescription).

I have hollow scars

They are treated in a medical office (dermatologist or aesthetic doctor). The first solution is the fractional laser. “We make coagulation points in the skin, which causes a scarring reaction allowing it to regenerate”, explains Dr Julien Vivier, director of the Center Laser Sorbonne, in Paris. Count from 1 to 3 sessions, a social eviction of a week and solar of a month and a half. Another technique: radiofrequency coupled with microneedling (Potenza). The first heats the skin and causes tissue coagulation and the second involves pricking the skin with needles. “This recent technique, which is suitable for all phototypes, triggers a healing process and boosts the synthesis of collagen and elastin,” says Dr. Vivier. Side suites, expect some redness. No social or solar eviction. 4 sessions spaced 2 months apart (about 400 € each). In addition, it is also possible to do a medium TCA peel on the hollow scars. “In general, I combine laser and TCA peels, complementary techniques,” notes Dr. Nina Roos.

And the other scars?

For elastolysis scars, the reference treatment is the fractional laser, which nevertheless offers fairly average results. “Because it is complicated to remove material,” emphasizes Dr. Roos. With regard to hypertrophic or keloid scars, local cortisone care is instead provided with compression dressings which aim to flatten the scar. In a second step, we use the laser to sand the skin. The treatment, carried out by a dermatologist, lasts several months, with repeated sessions. Cortisone injections are reimbursed by Social Security, but not the laser.

  • La Roche-Posay anti-blemish anti-mark serum, €28 for 30 ml
  • Light Ceutic unifying night cream, Dermaceutic, €37 for 40 ml
  • Ducray Keracnyl PP+ anti-blemish cream, €14 for 30 ml
  • Glyco-A night cream intense peeling Isispharma, €19.90 for 30 ml
  • Gel Plus 15% AHA Neostrata, €41.90 for 125 ml

Products available in pharmacies and parapharmacies

Good to know : Many dermocosmetic treatments target the inflammatory component of acne, thus reducing the subsequent risk of red or brown marks.


These new tablets are composed of carrot, nettle, melon and burdock. This 100% organic cocktail helps purify the skin, mattify it, cleanse it, protect it from oxidative stress and also reduce imperfections. By regulating the production of sebum, your skin will regain its radiance.

Imperfections, box of 30 tablets, €15.90, Biocyte, in pharmacies and parapharmacies


The first thing for oily, acne-prone skin is to clean it with a suitable product. This active foaming gel fulfills three missions: unclog pores, reduce blemishes and deeply cleanse with a gentle peeling effect. The keratolytic active ingredients will refine the grains of the skin.

Sébium active foaming gel, 200 ml tube, €11.80, Bioderma, in pharmacies and parapharmacies


Its triple purifying action will amaze you! First, it visibly reduces imperfections thanks to an immediate purifying action. Then it rebalances the cutaneous ecosystem and thus prevents the appearance of new imperfections. And finally the Aloe vera extract it contains soothes the epidermis and regenerates your skin.

Acnilogic gel, 15 ml tube, €29, Guinot, in salons and on


This anti-blemish range welcomes newcomers. Among them we have chosen the micellar solution which contains pink grapefruit, an active ingredient which purifies and also acts as an antioxidant while regulating sebum. There is also zinc, an ingredient known for its antibacterial and cleansing properties.

Purifying micellar solution, 250 ml bottle, Evoluderm, €3.95, GMS

Anais Pacaud & Eglantine Grigis

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