All hair that is not straight is called “textured”. “It was the Mizani brand that introduced this notion,” explains Aude Livoreil-Djampou, founder of Studio Ana’e. The term has been translated from English “textured hair” to designate a hair fiber that has body because to speak of “curly hair” is far too simplistic, underlines the expert.
The words “curly”, “curly”, “frizzy”, “wavy” show the great variety that exists and it is not necessarily a question of ethnicity. “Even if Afro, Hispanic or North African interbreeding, for example, has given rise to even more diversity”, deciphers Olivia Provost, CEO of Niwel Beauty. Textured hair accounts for two-thirds of the world’s population and no less than 20 to 25% of the European population. Today less abused by the smoothings that have become extremely rare, they are assumed and highlighted by personalities as inspiring and charismatic as Zendaya or Lena Mahfouf.
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Textured hair, tailor-made care for unique issues
Smooth or curly, the biology of the hair remains the same (cortex, cuticles and scales). However, it is thinner and therefore more fragile. In addition, its spiral shape does not allow sebum to flow over the lengths, which makes them drier. Finally, curly hair is very stressed by heating devices, subjected to many tractions during disentangling or styling, so that it is sensitized. It therefore needs a lot of care. “We must not forget either that, depending on the period, the place, the weather, the hair evolves”, adds Olivia Provost.
The first step to taking care of your textured hair is deep hydration. “Prefer specific treatments, without silicones or petroleum jelly, but full of moisturizing agents such as glycerin, aloe vera, vegetable oils, to seal in hydration and prevent frizz,” recommends Aude Livoreil-Djampou. Abuse masks. If it’s frothy, it’s probably dehydrated and in need of a moisturizing formula. If it is split, it needs to be repaired with proper care. Finally, if it is natural, use raw ingredients like shea butter or aloe vera.
“To make a mask penetrate, leave it under a heating charlotte, to be placed in the microwave to open the scales. Failing that, replace it with cellophane or aluminum paper”, advises Cassandra Jacob, founder of Les Petites hands of Cass. Finish with a rinse-out conditioner to complete the hydration. “To complete your ritual, go to the salon every one to three months for a deep treatment,” recommends Yohann Jouvanceau, from the Jouvanceau salon in Lyon. The Tokio Inkarami treatment, for example, restores material to the fiber thanks to keratin, while the AnS Brasil Hydrating Infusion Ritual nourishes lengths and ends.
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A nourishing daily ritual and a gentle wash
Every day, in the same way that you moisturize your skin, adopt this reflex for the hair. Dampen them with a spray bottle of water, then apply a mixture of leave-in conditioner and texturizing cream to restore body to the hair. When it is dry, you can coat it with a little serum to preserve your ends.
It is necessary to maintain hydration from the shampoo, with a gentle cleansing, without sulphates, so as not to strip all the sebum. One a week is enough. Between two washes, if your scalp gives you the feeling of not being clean, you can eliminate impurities with a “cowash”. Similar to conditioning, this soap-free cleansing treatment cleanses and rehydrates the hair fiber in a single step.
Wring the hair well with a microfiber towel before applying your mask. Do not rub the hair, you risk creating damage to the hair fiber. Instead, use gentle gestures to “dab” and absorb as much moisture as possible.
Detangle the hair with a brush with flexible bristles rather than with a disentangler whose teeth are too hard. Air dry if you can, otherwise use a blow dryer with a diffuser and set it to medium speed and medium heat. Finally, in the evening, to avoid the formation of knots during the night, sleep on a silk pillowcase, or tie your hair in a scarf.
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An ultra-precise cut and neat styling
Curly hair is particularly elastic. When wet, it stretches by 20% and shrinks when drying. Depending on its curliness, it can be up to four times shorter when dry. This is the “shrinkage” phenomenon. Most hairdressers learn to cut hair by tensioning the strands, as is taught in hairdressing schools. No wonder: in France, most cutting techniques are done on straight hair. However, this is not the right gesture if the hair is textured, unless you have perfectly mastered the anticipation of retraction.
“Better to cut dry to see how the hair is placed”, specifies Aude Livoreil-Djampou. The ideal? Go to a hairdresser accustomed to working on this type of hair. Same thing for color, because you have to take into account that the hair is thinner. He must therefore have a light hand and avoid overly lightening techniques.
Also, for styling, forget lacquers and styling products containing alcohol, which dry out the hair fiber. Prefer foams, jellies based on water and glycerin, which give bounce to curls without a crunchy effect.
“After using your leave-in treatment, give the curl a good direction by wrapping it around your finger, a pen or a Chinese chopstick”, advises Yohann Jouvanceau. If you have applied too much product, spray a little water to dilute it, then dab the hair with a towel. Finally, if you want to give a little pep to your curls before a night out, redraw those around the edges of the face with a curling iron of the appropriate diameter.
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Find out below our selection of care and accessories for textured hair.
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