Lasting beauty in all forms
Most of the key trends spotted among the beauty products exhibited at Cosmoprof Bologna this year relate to sustainable, eco-friendly and climate-conscious lifestyles. This megatrend has accelerated during the pandemic, growing stronger and each year becoming ever more inclusive. As a result, the “plastic-free” and “zero waste” concepts were visible throughout the show, as were the water-conscious products. Note also that vegan has become the norm for new brands, in particular those resulting from the clean beauty and organic.
The solid formats for hair and body care have dominated product launch news in recent years. Yet many of the new solid bath and body products shown at the show had little to do with the now-classic hair or shower bars. Indeed, new entrants and independents offer ever more sophisticated formulas and designs.
Thus, the Moringa Healthy Scalp solid shampoo from the organic Korean beauty brand Urang Natural has been formulated with soap noodles, which help generate an ultra-creamy lather, and with scalp-conditioning moringa extract. The ovoid shape of the product is pleasant to grip, even with wet hands and its rough surface foams quickly. For its part, the Lithuanian solid beauty brand Solidu Cosmetics uses processed vegetable oils for its thyme body butter (rather than the more common shea butter or cocoa butter). Its hexagonal shape is easy to grip and the product quickly melts into the skin without leaving it sticky.
The show was also an opportunity to numerous face care launches in solid formats. Depending on their positioning, brands market these solid solutions either as packaging/plastic reduction or as practical, fun and travel-friendly products. The Korean beauty brand cetena presented several face moisturizers in twist-up format, including a Multi Balm formulated with avocado oil and macadamia oil. The brand of K-beauty Lovbod introduced its new Dark Spots Brightening Stick, formulated with soothing bisabolol and sweet almond oil to hydrate and brighten discolored spots, while Canada’s Attitude launched several solid ranges for the face and body, including a whole range of sunscreen sticks based on mineral filters, packaged in cardboard packaging.
The anhydrous products being much lighter, they require less packaging and generate a smaller CO2 footprint during manufacturing and shipping. Presented in the form of tablets, powders or flakes, they were also very popular at the show. Designed to be reconstituted at home with water, they bring a playful DIY touch.
The Lebanese brand beesline received one of the show’s Awards for its new Deodorizing Roll-On, a vegan deodorant tablet that turns into a liquid deodorant formula when dissolved in water. The German organic beauty brand Ben & Annawhich originally started with baking soda deodorants, has launched a soap bar available in two scents that can be used to create liquid hand soaps.
the zero waste also remains a popular concept for both packaging and ingredients. More and more brands are using ingredients from upcycled or recovered food waste.
The British brand Upcircle Beauty was one of the first European body care brands to use ingredients from food industry waste in its products – the company started with bath and body care formulated with recycled coffee grounds . Today, Upcircle Beauty also uses other food waste by-products, such as recycled bergamot and kiwi waters. As for his compatriot Fruu Cosmeticsit formulates its range of solid products for the hair, skin and body with waste from the food industry, in particular fruits (skins, pulp, fruit juices and extracts).
Transparency and regional pride fuel localism when it comes to ingredients
Brands also continued to highlight key ingredients in their products, particularly when sourced locally, combining transparency supplies with the localism and the pride regional/national heritage.
The range of face care products from the young Swiss brand Chiara Zürich uses water from the glaciers of the Titlis mountain, near Lucerne, where the founder is from. Another example, the Korean brand Sioris who recently launched The Only One, a gel based on Korean bellflower extract. Similarly, the latest Danish company launch Unique – the gender-neutral skincare line for vegan face, body and hair, Beauhe:it – contains a whole range of typically Scandinavian plant ingredients. Finally, let’s mention the new Hyaluronic Spheres Serum from the Irish brand Green Angelformulated with locally harvested seaweed extracts.
This increased focus on ingredients has its origins in the functional beauty, a trend that also played a major role at the show. Many brands presented active ingredients in the form of intensive serums and ampoules. Classic active ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, vitamin C, retinol or niacinamide were particularly visible, for example in the range of functional serums for the face of the Turkish brand The Purest Solutions or in skincare products from the British Nature Spell. In addition, several brands have highlighted probiotics and ferments as key active ingredients. This was the case of the South African brand essefor its probiotic serum
Technology boosts personalization
Personalization remains an important source of innovation in beauty, especially in categories such as skincare. Cosmoprof Bologna 2022 featured exhibitors offering different product customization options. DIY concepts such as active ingredients in serum/booster form or neutral cream bases that can be customized with suitable active ingredients are always popular. But the advent of smart technologies, digitization, and the use of DNA open up entirely new possibilities for consumers and brands.
The Adaptive Skin Care concept of the Spanish brand Lesielle uses a small machine that mixes individual doses for skincare by combining actives with a base cream. The Swiss manufacturer of beauty technologies Reduced received one of the show’s Awards for its new Booster, a portable applicator for creams and lotions. Driven by an AI, it promises more efficient distribution of ingredients. Finally, the Italian company Genetica 23 offers personalized cosmetics based on DNA analysis, detailed facial analysis and a complete questionnaire.
Leave a Comment