New innovative treatments come to the aid of sensitive skin or uneven complexions. Update on these treatments with aesthetic medicine experts.
A perfect complexion and a radiant countenance are often compared to the famous “skin baby”. And for good reason: “A baby’s skin is adorned with the most radiant complexion. When observed under a microscope, it seems sculpted like a diamond to reflect light, with small regular and more or less deep streaks”, explains doctor Arnaud Lambert, cosmetic doctor and co-founder of the firm Aesthé. “Over time, small irregularities cause us to lose this complexion overall rosé. The “streaks” turn into wrinkles and others disappear due to numerous imbalances: dehydration, blood vessels that become more red, discolored skin, sebum that clogs pores, inflammations and spots that appear… A pretty complexion is is the subtle balance between all these parameters.”
More sensitive skin
Genetics, the environment and the rhythm of life play a lot on the homogeneity of the skin. Since the health crisis, 70% of French women report having a sensitive skin, “even very sensitive”, a figure that has been increasing for the last five years, also in relation to the increase in allergies throughout the world (1). “Sensitive or reactive skin is uncomfortable, tight, tingling or hot. She blushes easily, at the slightest difference in temperature, or during an emotion”, describes Doctor Nadine Pomarède, dermatologist in Paris and founder of the aesthetic dermatology centers DermoMedicalCenter. What explains this sudden sensitivity? “The most superficial part of the skin does not properly play its role as a skin barrier and induces these manifestations. Stress, wind, dry air such as air conditioning or UV rays can also increase this phenomenon.
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When these rednesses have settled in a more or less permanent way, we then speak of rosacea. “This can be characterized by visible vessels in the case of couperose, or diffuse redness in the case of erythrosis. Most often, both are present”, continues Doctor Pomarède, who suggests using the vascular laser and/or the pulsed lamp to remedy this. “More recently, the “Kleresca rosacea” treatment, which uses LED photomodulation, is an alternative to conventional laser treatments. It also allows to act on the outbreaks of inflammatory pimples that can occur on the background of redness. These techniques do not induce side effects”, she adds.
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The ideal routine
If some cosmetics can irritate the skin all the more, this does not mean that they should all be banned. “Often, when you have sensitive skin, you have the feeling that you can’t stand anything anymore, that you’re allergic to everything, which can lead to you no longer using skincare products. care. However, this aggravates the problem”, warns the expert. On the contrary, it is rather advisable to reinforce its beauty routine, choosing good allies. At home, “we promote facial cleansing with gentle products such as milks and oils, without rubbing the skin so as not to increase its reactivity. For those who prefer a foaming product, choose a soap-free soap or a surgras soap, applying it with circular movements”, advises Doctor Pomarède. “We finish with a spray of micronized thermal water that we dry with a handkerchief. And regularly, we make moisturizing and soothing masks to improve comfort. The prescription from the dermatologist? Opt for specific treatments for “intolerant” or reactive skin, whose formulas contain active ingredients that inhibit the inflammatory reaction in the cutaneous nervous system.
Conversely, “we avoid scrubs, lotions and exfoliating creams but also hot baths, sauna, hammam which dilate the vessels and increase redness on the face”, specifies Nadine Pomarède.
Of all skin problems, blemishes are the third biggest concern for women after firmness andacne (2). “The epidermis is mainly made up of keratinocytes and melanocytes (the cells responsible for skin pigmentation, editor’s note) which produce melanin thanks to an enzyme called tyrosinase”, explains Shalina Hassanaly, head of the Caudalie Biology Laboratory. “Because of UV rays and factors inducing hormonal fluctuations such as agingpregnancy or acne, an excessive amount of melanin is produced by tyrosinase, causing a dark spot.”
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Generally, spots related to previous sun exposure can be faded in a few sessions of pigment lasers or pulsed lamps. As for depigmentation, “the latest generation of pigment lasers called picoseconds, such as Picoway, can treat lighter spots, which are deemed more difficult to eliminate,” notes Doctor Nadine Pomarède.
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To treat sunspots and redness with two birds with one stone, a new tool from Silicon Valley stands out in aesthetic medicine practices: the Broadband Light Laser (“BBL”). “These are light beams that target the cells responsible for vascular redness. By causing the vessels to coagulate, they also help to eliminate pigmentary disorders linked to the sun”, explains Doctor Arnaud Lambert. “This allows for a global treatment of the complexion. Effects on redness, spots and uniformity are accumulated in the same session, without leaving bruises on the skin. With the tools I used two or three years ago, I could have burned the skin. It’s great progress.” This protocol can then be coupled with LED lights to boost its benefits.
It is also a treatment that has proven itself in terms of skin aging: “Standford University has succeeded in demonstrating that if we practice this treatment regularly, that is to say at least twice a year, our skin cells showed a more “youthful” profile for longer. It’s as if we were proactive on the aging of cells. No laser has proven such results today”, he concludes. The price of this aptly named “Forever Young BBL”: between 250 and 600 euros per session, depending on the size of the area to be treated.
(1) Ifop survey for Slow Cosmétique of July 2020.
(2) Ipsos global study for Caudalie.
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