It is to Oprah Winfrey that she owes the nickname “cosmetic cop”. Paula Begoun is the founder of Paula’s Choice, the star brand of TikTok. At 70, the American has a strong opinion on how we should take care of our skin. During her visit to Europe, she agreed to answer questions from our readers. And to share with us the ten commandments of his ideal routine.
If you swear by natural cosmetics or think that applying a mask once a week will help you have more beautiful skin, Paula Begoun may shake you up in your certainties. This 70-year-old American who now lives in Hawaii has always been passionate about cosmetics. She has been working in the field for nearly 50 years. First as a journalist, she has written more than twenty books. Very critical works that earned her the nickname “cosmetics cop” before launching her own brand, Paula’s Choice, in 1995. She has just expanded her offer with a brand new duo of vitamin C products.
This anti-oxidant that she describes as a superhero should, according to our skincare guru, be part of our daily routine. Visiting Amsterdam for the launch of these two products, Paula Begoun agreed to answer in front of the camera a selection of questions from our readers (see below). She also gives us the ten commandments of her ideal routine.
1. It’s never too early to start using anti-aging
“Of course we have to agree on the definition we give to this word. The first anti-aging is a simple routine that will prevent your skin from starting to age prematurely due to external factors, such as the sun or pollution. Never forget that you begin to age… as soon as you are born. The basis is cleansing, hydration and sun protection. So, yes, from day one you have to protect children’s skin from the sun if you go out.
Even in winter. Even to cross the garden. Wash and moisturize your baby’s skin with gentle and especially unscented products, as most parents do. In adolescence, perhaps an anti-oxidant is added. If necessary, choose a product containing active ingredients that fight against acne. If you are careful and follow a few simple rules, you will have less need to correct the damage with targeted assets”.
2. Your sunscreen is your best friend
“It’s the basis, I can’t repeat it enough, especially in Europe where we still tend to believe that a tanned complexion is a sign of good health. While the tan, like the redness of irritation, is your skin’s way of crying out “Help, I’m burning, I’m in pain!” “. We now know that the sun is responsible for premature ageing. So you have the choice of being “sun smart” or “sun stupid”. Your sunscreen is your best friend. Tanning is a sign that your DNA is mutating.
View content
As for the argument which consists in saying that you have to expose yourself without a filter to synthesize vitamin D, it is better to supplement yourself if you have taken the trouble to do the blood tests which show that you are really deficient. . Because there is no safe protocol to say which part of the body and for how long or at what time of day you should be exposed for this to be really effective and measurable”.
3. Sheet masks are useless
“And by extension, it’s just as unnecessary to apply a cream mask. It’s a waste of money and time. We advance you to justify the use of these products that it will help the penetration of active ingredients. It’s not true. Ingredients are only absorbed based on two scientifically established facts: the size of the molecule and the way the ingredient is going to be presented to the skin.
It is therefore a question of quality of formulation. If the formula is right, the ingredient will find its way into the skin… at its own pace. Not all of them are supposed to penetrate deeply. On the contrary, sunscreens or exfoliants must remain on the surface. Pause time is irrelevant”.
4. Facial yoga is heresy
“I can’t take any more of all these rollers, these guashas, these aggressive massages which ultimately only bring additional stress to your skin. Anything that pulls it up or down can damage the flexibility of the elastin. It’s like a rubber band, by dint of pulling on it, you end up snapping it and it’s irreparable. In the skin, it’s the same.
You ultimately facilitate the sagging of your skin. It’s the same for “skin icing”, in other words the use of cold. No, it will not facilitate blood circulation or that of the lymph. The cold shrinks everything and slows down movement. And redness is never a good sign. »
5. Exfoliating Your Skin Can Change Your Life
“Provided, once again, that it does not irritate the skin. This is why I ban all scrubs that use particles. Just as it is essential to cleanse your skin, very gently, to remove traces of pollution but also sunscreen and make-up, you can help the skin to eliminate dead cells. Something she did very well on her own when you were young.
But once again, due to pollution and sun damage, the cells don’t do their job as well as they used to. What’s fascinating about exfoliation is that unlike some products that take time to see results, you can notice improvements overnight. I recommend using acids that are left on the skin, without rinsing them.
AHAs – whether lactic or glycolic – and BHAs, alone or in combination. But once again provided they are well formulated, without irritants, without alcohol and without essential oils. My catalog is full of them! My favorite is a 2% BHA solution. However, my company did not want to launch it because it did not have a texture deemed elegant enough. I stood my ground saying that if it didn’t sell I would buy the stock. It became a bestseller all over the world”.
6. Less is best does not apply to skincare
“No matter how fantastic a single ingredient will never work miracles. In any case, you cannot give up your basic routine: cleansing, exfoliation especially from a certain age, hydration, application of antioxidants and sunscreen.
It is already a lot! And to that it’s up to you to add all the superheroes you may need if your skin has been damaged by pollution or the sun, such as retinol for example. The skin is hungry, it can’t get enough of it…as long as what you apply to it doesn’t cause irritation. We will therefore always ban perfumes, essential oils and denatured alcohols”.
7. Age is not a skin type
“There is nothing I find more absurd than these articles telling you how to take care of your skin at 20, 30, 40 or 50! It’s silly. Your 20-year-old skin is so damaged that it already needs retinol. Others at 40 who are doing like a charm because we knew how to protect them.
The only thing that is true is that the skin becomes thinner after the age of 50 due to menopause and the decrease in estrogen levels in the skin. It is possible to act topically on the skin with cosmetic creams but they are not yet authorized in Europe. I hope that will change soon. »
8. Products should never be offered in jars
“If you choose products packed with active ingredients, they should never be packaged in jars. Because as soon as you remove the lid, air enters and immediately deteriorates the active ingredients. In addition, you will put your fingers in it and even if you use a spatula you will not disinfect it each time after use. And the bacteria that will enter will also deteriorate the stability of the product.
You will say to me: but why do we still use them? Because the experience is sensual! We open, we smell the product, we touch it. And above all, we have the very satisfying impression of being able to recover the product to the very last drop. Yet when you’re at the bottom of the pot, the ingredients you hope to benefit from have probably long since disappeared”.
9. Consistency is the key to success
“Don’t get distracted by all the new products that come out on the market, even the ones I’m launching if they’re not what your skin needs. It is not true that you have to change your routine according to the seasons. You have to listen to your skin, so yes, there may be small adjustments at times.
But there’s no reason to drastically alter a routine that works for you. On the contrary, consistency, especially when it comes to using a sunscreen, is the key to success. »
10. Beware of social networks
“Consumers mistakenly think that they are better informed about skincare thanks to social networks but it is much worse than before! Because we see even more insane information circulating. I stay away to avoid making an attack. After all these years, I still can’t stand people who peddle crazy things about cosmetics.
Some lies are benign. But others can have serious consequences. There’s nothing less ethical on social media than pseudo-influencers who make people more fearful of sunscreens than the dangers of the sun itself. It is ridiculous and reprehensible”.
Leave a Comment